FW #2: Delpozo

FW #2: Delpozo

Unknown   08.15   Comment  

All eyes were on the show of

Delpozo

 Delpozo is a fashion company founded by the Spanish designer Jesús del Pozo. After the passing of it's founder in August 2011, the company named Josep Font as the new creative director in 2012.

His aim was to turn Delpozo into an international luxury brand. With only three collections under his belt Font is doing quite well. 

For this collection he was inspired by two themes. The first one is the painting  La Zingara by Corot. His second inspiration were the windows of gothic cathedrals."Seperately they seem very opposite, but when they came together they created a very inspiring image that influenced the whole collection."  

I'm very delighted with the creative and innovative designs. They're made with such precision.

The Balenciaga-esque shapes were oustanding. I love how Font plays with these unexpected volumes. He showed respect for the heritage of Delpozo, but made sure it looked thoroughly modern. For an ultra feminine touch there were traditional craftwork details like lace, embroideries and floral appliqués

The collection consisted of volumious skirts, off-the-shoulder tops, ballgowns, pallazzo pants and flower dresses. All in a color palette of lavender, green, pink and beige.

Breaking News: Marc Jacobs leaves Louis Vuitton

Breaking News: Marc Jacobs leaves Louis Vuitton

Unknown   10.41   Comment  

Marc Jacobs is leaving Louis Vuitton after a 16-year partnership to concentrate on his own eponymous line. 

After weeks of speculation the news was confirmed by LVMH.

Jacobs' presented his last collection for the label this morning. 

His successor at Louis Vuitton is expected to be announced shortly. Nicolas Ghesquière is considered to be the front-runner.

FW #1: Calvin Klein

FW #1: Calvin Klein

Unknown   08.34   Comment  

Let's start my Fashion Week chapter with one of my favorite shows in New York:

Calvin Klein

His 10th anniversary at the helm of Calvin Klein gave Francisco Costa the oppotunity to explore and experiment. In his new collection he seem to deconstruct everything he's done and then put it back together again. 

Costa found inspiration in Peter Bialobrzeski's photographs of the slums in Manila. The shacks are made from any available material. The mix of different fabrics, as seen on the cottages, was clearly visible. This season he found beauty in the unfinished and improvised. I think it's a beautiful turnaround of all his work for the label we've seen in the past.

The base of the collection are simple shapes, like the men's t-shirt and XL tank tops. But then explored in many diffrent places. "We create this technique to fray the fabric." Almost all the fabrics in the collection were handwoven. 

"We live in a multicultural world, you can't ignore that. I hope you see this diversity in the collection." I did. Not only in the choice of fabrics and colors, but the diversity was also seen on the catwalk (thumbs up, Francisco!).

Aura

Aura

Unknown   08.22   Comment  

Women all across the country of Sweden are protesting against islamophobia by wearing hijabs. The campaign is to show support with a muslim woman, six months pregnant, who was attacked in a Stockholm suburb for wearing one. Actually racism in Sweden isn't something of the past few years. In fact the number of Islamophobic incidents in Sweden is on the rise. All this came to me as a surprise. I always thought of Sweden as a warm, tolerant country. 

In the country where I live, The Netherlands, there was a similar action in 2010 of non-religious women who set up a headscarf in solidarity. The reason for this was Geert Wilders (a well known Dutch politician, unfortunately), who in pre-election suggested a 'kopvoddentaks' to enter, or a penalty for women who wear headscarves.

I think that the idea of Wilders is ridiculous. In most cases women decide for themselves whether or not they want to wear a headscarf. Most muslim women in the European countries are more independent and western than they were years ago. Also I think it's absurd to punish one on the basis of religion, culture, orgin or color (like most of us, I hope). 

The burqa I find more complicated. It's non-revealing and the woman can't be viewed. Furthermore it is often a sign of women's oppression. (I do not tell that this applies to ALL women who wear a burqa, let that be clear!)

Lady Gaga is playing on dangerous ground with the song Aura of her new, highly anticipated album ARTPOP.  In the song Gaga refers to the burqa as a metaphor for hiding her true self from the public eye. 

I can live with the lyrics I'm not a wandering slave, I'm a woman of choice. But later in the song she lost me when she sings Do you wanna see me naked, lover? Do you wanna peak underneath the cover? In my opinion she suggests that the burqa is a subject of sexual gratification. Also I get the impression that Gaga sees the burqa as some sort of fashion statement instead of a garment with cultural and religious significance. But in the end Gaga is all about controversy. That explains a lot.

This Must Be The Only Fantasy

This Must Be The Only Fantasy

Unknown   08.25   Comment  

This Must Be The Only Fantasy

tells the story about a heroine in the suburbs of Los Angeles. When she goes outside she confronts an evil force. Everything she experiences in channeled through her own reality, it balances between real life and fantasy. During her journey she runs for the dark knight, rides a unicorn and fights with a light saber. In these struggles she gets help of a fairy. The movie is about temptations and dealing with them.
Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte wanted to tell a story about a hero. 'You live your life in every day but in the other world in your mind you get to live up.' At the end the girl takes the crown. After all everyone's a hero!

The movie responds on things that are very on point. Of course that the digital world is taking over the real world. Todd Cole, the director, says about this topic: 'The idea now that you can make something and that you can distribute it on the internet and that a lot of people will see it online is amazing.'
Magical realism and 1980s video games come together in the stylistic visuals by VFX studio a52. They brought a little magic in the visual effects. Other work of the studio is based on making something for the real, invisible almost. 'With the idea of magical realism we were able to kind of bring more showy effects.' The movie's lead role is played by, quite unknown, 18 year old LA girl and Hedi Slimane muse Sidney Williams. Supermodel Guinevere van Seenus plays a glitchy projection of a fairy.
Also there's an hommage to the king of the world, yes, Elijah Wood a.k.a. Frodo in Lord of the Rings.
All this amazingness is topped of with a soundtrack created by dream pop duo Beach House. 

It's the third movie by the Mulleavy sisters in collaboration with Todd Cole. 'I never think of these films as fashion films', Cole said, 'I think of Kate and Laura's clothes as more of a starting point, and then I create a world for them to exist in.' Rodarte did a collection inspired by medieval role-playing games. The clothes are about playing with different textures, colors and movement. The sisters must have been influenced by their costume designing for opera. It all breathes fantasy, Game of Thrones and a little bit of King Arthur.
'There's an interesting thing about being based in classic ideas of silhouettes, but then playing with them and reinventing them and make people imagine something different.'

Black Beauty

Black Beauty

Unknown   05.44   Comment  

Is there too little ethnicity and diversity on the catwalk?
Five years ago there was this discussion. In the meantime, nothing really changed when it comes to casting models.
Quite remarkeble: there were no black models (not even one!) at the shows of Dior and Saint Laurent for fall. In total, for all shows that season there was a ratio of 6% colored models compared to 82.7% white models. The season before it went to 8% of the models. Celine never even casted a model with black skin since Phoebe Philo runs the label.
Raf Simons did cast black models for his latest couture collection. Six to be precise. But isn't that obvious when a show is inspired by global clientele across the continents of Europe, Asia, America and Africa? Given the theme of the collection, it's still the question if next season will be any different.

Kenzomania

Kenzomania

Unknown   06.44   Comment  

Eye see you!

In art nouveau department store La Samaritaine, that hasn't been used for decades, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon of Kenzo showed their fall collection. Inspired by trips to India, exoticness was everywhere. The layering was based on  the way Indian temples are built. The oriental influences are also visibal through the colors. Gold, red and royal blue dominated. The duo chose an third eye motif that popped up on shirts, sweaters and trousers. 'It's all about protection and warding off evil spirits.'

Kenzo collaborated with creative trio Maurizio Cattelan, Micol Talso and Pierpaolo Ferrari behind renowned magazine TOILETPAPER for the fall campaign. As models they hired Sean O'Pry and academy award winning actress Rinko Kikuchi. The result is an amazing colorful campaign that includes surreal situations.
What about flying on a perfect manicured hand? Or a dog dressed up as a tiger? The campaign represents creative freedom in my opinion; you see that nothing was holding the team back for creating 'eye-catching' images. This is my favorite campaign by far this season!